General Processes - Working with Wood

General Processes:

Pre-Check

Make sure all parts given to you are 'square'. That means the edges are 90 degress to each other before you start marking out.

Marking Out (After you got your raw materials)
1) Mark out all parts with lines for sawing and trimming with a marking knife, mark the centres of curves (radius) and holes to be drilled with an 'x'. Mark out all the positions for screws and/nails nails.

Tips:

• If you have screws or nails in your joints, work out the correct length, type of head, and the diamter & depth of the pilot holes to drill. Also make sure that you do not screw or nail too close to the edge of the wood.

Drilling
2) Drill all the holes first.

Tips:

• If dowels are required, make sure you check that the diameter of the dowels matches the diameter of the drill bit. To check if the fit nicely, try it on a piece of waste wood.
• If you require a flat hole, use a Forstner Bit instead of a Drill Bit.
• If you require a large hole and not even the Forstner Bit can create it, consider using a Hole Saw instead.

Sawing
3) Trim (concave or convex) curves using Scroll Saw (if wood is thin) or Tenon saw (for straight cut). For external curves, the Circular Sanding Machine may be used.

Dry Assembly (to test if parts fit)
4) Dry fit all your parts, check that they are OK. If not ok, modify or re-do.

Tips:

• Don't join them with PVA and nails yet or screws yet!

Finishing (Part 1 of 2: Sanding Preparation)
5) Sand surfaces and edges smooth using Glass Paper (aka sand paper).

IMPORTANT:

• If you are joining edges, you MUST NOT sand the edges to be joined! It will not fit after that.

Tips:

• Round the edges for aesthetics. It usually works.

6) Join parts using PVA and and Panel Pins or Screws.

Note:

• When using screws no PVA glue is required. Because one of the reasons for using screws instead of nails is so that the parts can be taken apart later on.
• If you use nails (and PVA glue), then you are prepared for a permanent joint.

Finishing (Part 2 of 2: Spray Paint or Lacquer)
7) Finish as desired (spray paint or lacquer).

Tips:

• Always spray paint at least 300mm away from the object.
• Test spray in thin air before applying your coat. This procedure is used to get rid of blogged droplets.
• Lacquer on a clear sunny day instead of a rainy and humid day.
• Use spray lacquer to achieve even coat on surface.
• When using brush for lacquer, always ensure thin coat for every layer of coat.
• Allow coats (spray paint, spray lacquer or brush lacquer) to dry completely in cool and dry places before applying the next coat.
• Drying time varies with types of coats. Generally up to 2 hours is required to ensure surface is completely dry.
• Sanding is required for the first 3 coats of lacquer. But use very old and used glass paper.
• For really glossy surfaces, up to 10 coats of lacquer is needed.
• Use the drying time in between lacquer to update your journal or complete the other parts of your project.

Special Note:

• Sometimes it is necessary to join (step 6) first before sanding (step 5).
• Sometimes it is necessary to join all parts (step 6) before the applying the finishing coat (step 7).
• It all depends on the nature of the project.

If in doubt... alway ask.